The Creel

Posted February 23, 2010 by drbaits
Categories: Uncategorized

Well, one assignment I had was to make a tackle box for the display.  After looking around for examples, I decided a creel would be more appropriate with a box inside to store lures and paraphenalia.  working wicker is not in my wheelhouse and not likely to appear in the near future, but I found examples of wooden creels…a little closer to my skill set.  I decided to make the box of white poplar, since it is light, yet sturdy.  It’s not as light as wicker, but not too bad. I still have to put on a leather strap that I’ve rounded up and hinges, but we’re pretty close.


Posted February 22, 2010 by roycestearns
Categories: Uncategorized

In progress

Aged and accompanied by an old wallet
wallet & flies

a wallet and box of flies

my VB sign

one more of some of the hook steps

The Van Buren New York Reel

Posted February 21, 2010 by mljhackney
Categories: reel

The reel is nearing completion so I’ll start to post photos showing how I put it together. I started with the front plate. This is a hollow chamber that contains the transmission for the multiplier and the stop latch. After close scrutiny of the original, I determined that the case was turned on a lathe. I started with a 1″ long piece of 2″ brass rod. After facing both ends, I hollowed the backside of the plate. Once hollowed, I cut the front plate from the bar and held it in the lathe chuck to face the cut end. I then turned to the thickness of plate and left a little protrusion for the bullet area in the middle that covers the spindle. I carefully lathe file the bullet shaped profile to match the original. Finally, I rounded over the edge and cut the decorative grooves on the face and side wall using a very narrow “V” tipped graver. Here is the result:

Once the front plate was completed, I fabricated the back plate from the same 2″ bar. This plate has a small lip for the front plate to sit in to. The backside of it is also hollowed out to allow the spool side plate to recess in to it. Here are some photos of it:

And here are the parts assembled:

These are unfinished parts at this point. They will be polished and after the reel is assembled, distressed lightly to simulate usage.

Leather Rod Sack

Posted February 11, 2010 by drbaits
Categories: Uncategorized

Later in the 1800s, makers made wooden forms to hold the rod sections while not in use and while in transit.  However, as far as i can tell, most Smith age rods were carried in cloth or leather scabbards….lucky I kept that steer hide I picked up for a couple bucks at some thrift store a few years ago….with a little help from the local shoe repair shop, it came out pretty nice, methinks:

Some bits and pieces about ferrule/guide making

Posted January 16, 2010 by drbaits
Categories: Uncategorized

Mike asked me to bare all and show you all my pain and suffering on the way to making ferrules and guides for the rod.  All I can say is that it’s like most things…the more you do it, the better you get.  I haven’t gotten to the point where I’d like to be, but here are a few things I’ve learned to date and procedures used.  I’m sorry about the order of the pics…seems this program doesn’t want to drop the pics where I tell it, but lumps it all together.  However, I think it can be sorted out.

The jig used for bending was made on the table saw by cutting a 45 degree V in the middle.  One might think you’d want a round surface, but as shown, the V provides the necessary leverage to make smooth bends in the brass, using round bar stock or dowel to apply pressure.  Once the bend is satisfactory, the edges are filed smooth and the tube is tied up using thin wire, leaving a minimal separation between the two edges.  you can also use hose clamps to do this.  However, you want to minimize the  surface area of the ties, since solder has a habit of tracking along the wire or clamp, making a mess on the outside of the tube that has to be ground and sanded.

One of the first lessons learned was that you don’t want to solder from the outside!  This just creates a lot of excess solder that has to be removed.  By soldering from the inside, you don’t make quite the mess and also, you increase the surface area bound by the solder and thus the strength of the joint.

Some of the Good, Bad, and downright ugly:

Note also that when soldering, you can use the thin wire ties to hold the work in the vise….key is to minimize contact with the vise so it doesn’t act as a heat sink…otherwise, you’ll spend lots of time and propane trying to get it hot enough to melt the solder.

Quasi-final rod update 1/13/10

Posted January 13, 2010 by drbaits
Categories: rod

Well, I still have a bit of clean-up and polishing of the finish, but the rod is pretty well complete, with spare mids and tips.  Here are some pics of the rod with finish to attempt to match rods of that genre:

Now, off to make that wooden creel before life and job run me to ground.

Rod Update 12/26/09

Posted December 27, 2009 by drbaits
Categories: Uncategorized

Well, there was quite a learning curve in figuring out how to solder the ferrules and line guides and there’s still a bit of clean-up work to do.  However, we have a pretty good opening bid for  serviceable ferrules and guides in the style of the day.  Now, it’s off to work on putting on a suitable finish: